Founded in 1772 in the mountain hot spring town of Yamanaka Onsen, Matsuura Shuzo is now led by 14th-generation owner and brewmaster Fumiaki Matsuura, whose understated, beautifully structured sake is rarely seen outside of Ishikawa and a handful of restaurants in Tokyo. Made from Dewasansan and Gohyaku Mangoku rice polished to 65% and fermented with Kumamoto yeast, Chokara is a super-dry Junmai with remarkable clarity and backbone. Light-plus to medium in body and dry, it offers fresh orchard fruit with medium-plus acidity, feeling bright and light on its feet while still maintaining plenty of structure. A fantastic match for grilled fish, smoky meats, miso-based stews, braised daikon, and other savory dishes.