Garnatxa Blanca from Terra Alta, Catalonia, Spain; fermented in 500L barrel then aged for 8 months in neutral oak; medium plus bodied and dry, big and oaky with preserved lemon citrus and creamed corn, with subtle hints of caramel and minerals, with great structure and a velvety texture, medium plus acid, and a long full finish.

Working with decades old bush-trained vines on steep terraced sloaps, Joan Angel Lliberia of Edetaria Edetana has been making wine since 2003. His grandfather produced bulk wines, as did his father Angel, an oenologist who sold his grapes to the local cooperative while he studied winemaking in France for ten years. "We have 30ha now," says Joan Angel, "but 25ha of our vineyards have 30+ year old vines, and our old carignan vines are 80 years old." And because the vineyards experience a Mediterranean climate, "there's not much sickness in the vineyard," adds Joan Angel. "The vineyards work themselves without the addition of chemicals.

"To obtain minerality and freshness in a Mediterranean climate, we must work the vineyard by hand," says Joan Angel. "In the cellar we only work with big barrels to retain the aromas of the terroir. We use only natural yeasts to show the maximum authenticity; we work with five different terroirs, with different grapes. We try to keep the authenticity of the different blocks, with different plots in different bottles."

Here, Garnacha is the focus. Edetaria Edetana is "in the forefront of that area," says Jorge, "in taking Garnacha to the next level. [Some of] his Garnacha Negra has mutated into Garnacha Peluda, which means 'hairy' [or 'downy']. The back of the leaf has changed and developed hairs on the back of the leaf, which retains better moisture; it lends acidity to wines, so most of his wines contain Garnacha Peluda."

Working with five soil types (tapas, tapas blanc, vall, panal and codols), each with their own microclimate, Joan Angel says, "I'm only 47 years old. The reason to plant these vines in the soils is not mine, it's my father's. I always ask my father which grapes to plant in which soil." For he's the planter of their 60 year old vines.